Interchangeability of Throttle Controllers

Evlar

Hi all, newb to the site. I’m curious if by changing out the throttle controller on a scooter does that affect the acceleration, Electronic braking, etc.? On the controller that came with my scooter (Gobi S) I notice that the throttle (trigger) Is quite sensitive (too punchy) despite turning down some of the P code settings. Same goes with the EBS. Would changing out the controller brand to a more common brand impact the trigger sensitivity as well as the breaking or is that something that is part of the master control unit within the board of the scooter? Any advice would be appreciated!!!

oerk

Evlar

justin

I have also purchased a Gobi S and noticed the throttle is very touchy.

Can anyone explain the P settings that the Gobi S has? There’s Magnet Pole Sheet /2 and there’s a locked speed setting that i am sure could be unlocked but I am not sure how.

oerk

Evlar I watched the videos you posted and that ticking sound is the sound of your rear valve stem hitting the swing arm, you just need to either remove the plastic cap on the stem and push it in or push it in.

justin

HI @Evlar

What trigger throttle do you have right now?

Is it the QS-S4?

I think what you are experiencing is a bit of both and not sure that swapping out the throttle unit is going to help much.

Both the throttle itself (particularly if it’s a trigger) AND the controller contribute to the “jumpiness” of the scooter.

The trigger throttles are quite non-linear and have a significant “dead zone” as you start to squeeze them down. The second aspect is that the controller (beefier component buried in the deck) has a bit of delay before it starts putting real power into the motor. Part of this is that on most scooters the controller has to figure out which way the motor is starting to rotate as it puts out power and apply a phase offset to it going forward.

The combination of this trigger deadzone and controller phase adjustment means that you squeeze down on the throttle continue to feel nothing until maybe you’ve hit 50% throttle until all of sudden you’re being launched.

I think if you swapped out both the throttle and controller for one of the more premium units (like those we see in esk8), you might be able to solve the problem, but this would be a bit like doing a brain transplant on your scooter and significantly expensive.

I would think doing what you’ve already done: dialing back power/initial torque and turning down the regen would get you about as good as you can get with the lowest level of effort.

If you do end up going into more serious scooter hacking, keep us updated on it!

Evlar

justin thanks Justin! I thought that might be the case. It’s actually a generic trigger squeeze Throttle for a 52 V scooter. It’s the urban drift Gobi S. It’s a fast and fun scooter but has some issues that may stem from the design and engineering. I’ve had it a few days and it’s much more jumpy at the slightest squeeze of the throttle. My greater concern at the moment is that no matter what I do I cannot seem to successfully adjust the rear brake alignment to where i don’t have some level or rubbing. They are hydraulic disc brakes and work well, but Because of the single-sided swingarm design I noticed that the rotor slightly tilts outward when you put weight on the scooter (meaning it’s no longer completely parallel to the pads. I’ve checked all fasteners, nuts and bolts but no matter the adjustment I still get a slight rub. I think my rotor may be slightly warped as well but hard to tell. I’m hoping as a use the brake pads though we’re down a bit to where they don’t touch any more when not in use.

justin also here’s a link to the throttle and my rear brake issue. https://photos.app.goo.gl/2c2VULpnqe42Fzd26

DrScootLittle

Hi Evlar,
Great questions. I’m checking on the first part. My gut feel is that the throttle assembly’s only contribution to abruptness is the abruptness of the signal that it physically generates. For example, starts ramping immediately and goes up 5% per degree, vs starts after 15 degrees and goes up 10% per degree. So there is potentially some contribution from the throttle lever, but the mapping (translation of signal to current) is the motor controller’s department.

Like Justin was saying, P-Settings will often let you dial down initial acceleration. But I don’t know your scooter, unfortunately.

The ticking sound from your rear wheel is once per rotation, which makes me think the valve stem is contacting the caliper, even though it’s tucked in tightly.

Your brakes look perfectly centered, but you can straighten rotors if they are bent. Place your scooter on a box. Get a sharpie. Hold it super close to the rotor and spin the wheel. See if you can get it to mark the high spot. Be super careful to exactly identify the high spot (or low spot). Then use an adjustable wrench to grab the rotor and flex it the opposite way. Then check again. I’ve had good luck bringing back very bent rotors this way.

DrScootLittle

oerk
I haven’t had my hands on a Gobi scooter. It looks like a clone of a minimotors display.

How many P-settings are there?

The best thing to do whenever changing P-settings is to start by documenting all of the original settings very carefully, so you can find your way back. Then, worst case, you can experiment with them one at a time to see how each responds. My favorite way of testing initial acceleration settings is to put the scooter on top of a bench or crate and see how fast the wheels spin up to full speed at different settings.

I’ve searched the Urban Drift site and don’t see any owner’s manuals there. Can you post a link to a manual, or a PDF, or a photo of any p-setting documentation you have?

We have a great p-settings database on our website, but can always use help expanding our database! Currently the Gobi isn’t listed.

BrobicVripiat

Are the sine wave controllers better at eliminating this light switch uncontrollable throttle response behavior. Can you recommend a scooter that has gradual throttle response with good mid range control? Could not stand the throttle action on my Zero10× 60v before I got rid of it.

DrScootLittle

BrobicVripiat
It does seem like the sinewave controllers are smoother. I’m not sure if that’s necessarily because it’s a sine drive, or if those controllers just put more thought into the progressive nature of the throttle.

The best throttle I’ve ever experienced is on the Apollo Phantom Ludicrous prototype we have here. It won’t be in production until late Summer though.

Definitely looking forward to testing out the NAMI Burn-E soon. It looks very smooth.

MichaelBowman

Hello, I have a Urban Drift Gobi S and one way you can avoid burning the tires off every time you are applying throttle is to not to start off with the turbo and both wheels on. What I do mostly when on pavement is start off in Eco mode then kick on the turbo and for the last kick of power if needed I turn on both wheels. This has significantly extended the life of my tires, and it does not make me hold on for dear life on take off. It allows you to start smoothly. As far a regenerative breaking try turning it to the middle setting if the top one is giving you trouble.

MichaelBowman

One more thing. There are 10 P settings and the values are in that little manual that came with the Gobi